Alright guys it is time! Time for me to step up the game. After several attempts during a gorgy-teenage-surfing-summer-camp in France, some private lessons from a hot Ozzie boy at the tropical beaches of Brasil (free of charge for Blonde, Dutch girls, lucky me) it was time to give my surfing moves one last and final chance.
I have to admit, my 6 ft 2 clumsy body has never had a massive level of self-conscience. It just seems so tall that the travel time between my brain sending out a message and my muscles receiving the message is just too freaking long. By that time the wave has already pulled my board into the ocean, a shark has eaten my left leg or I made a full on face crash into the sand. But as mister Jobs said: ‘You’ll miss 100% of the shots you didn’t take!’ and I’m always in for a day at the beach, even if it’s a fairly embarrassing one. So I kept my mouth shut, ‘forgot’ to mention that I had already tried surfing before (like 10+ times…. Ahum), decided to start from 0 and signed up for a Beginners Group lesson at ‘Get Wet Surf School’ in Surfers Paradise.
On ‘Judgement day’ Kurt, my surf instructor came to pick me up from Bunk Hostel in Surfers Paradise. Happy camper, big smile and good spirits. He brought Siang with him, a funny and witty girl. Siang told me she only learned to swim one month ago, but was totally ready to go! YOLO mentality to the max! I love it!
Once arrived at the beach, Kurt gave us a long sleeve to protect us from the sun (and any embarrassing movement of our bikini tops), asked us some last questions about our swimming skills, gave ‘heaps’ of sunscreen and, last but not a least, a surfboard. Disguised as frosty the snowmen with our thick plaster of sunscreen and a surfboard under our arm, we follow Kurt, who leads the way to the beach. I sneak peak to the other surfers making their way to the beach. Some on their bikes, most of them bare foot, sunbleached hairs in the wind and all these super chilled and intriguing vibes around them. I try to imitate a few. Walking up straight, board casually caring underneath my arm, pretending it’s weighing just as much as feather. Sunglasses on the nose and smooth, chilled out poker face focused on the horizon. Maybe if I just feel like a surfer it will change my luck today?
Kurt explains shortly the basic techniques of paddling and standing up on the board. Luckily he lets us try on the beach first. Some tips and tricks to improve and then it is time for the real thing. We all line up in the waves and take our turns to go to Kurt and his lovely assistant to literally give us a push into the right direction. They make sure the wave hits our board at the right time and takes us back to the beach, All we have to focus on is standing up! Which appeared again… not to be easy…. Then one of my group members starts to get a hand on it. As true surfers do, we celebrate with a smooth high five and seal the deal with a ‘well-done bro!’. Then another group member rises up on her board, and another one and another one…By the end of the 2 hour trial Kurt had turned most surf puppies into some decent surfers pittbulls. Apart from one… me…
‘You’re more than welcome to come and jump on the afternoon session as well. I’m sure you’ll succeed if you practice a little more.’ Sweet Kurt offers kindly. But unfortunately my busy bloggers schedule won’t let me any room for some extra liters of salt water consumption. Even though I have to admit….. I’m hooked.
Despite the fact that if there is such thing as surf dyslexia, for sure I’ll get a positive diagnosis. But I’ll keep on trying regardless. There’s just something about it. It’s just too much fun. And if you ever meet surfers ask them about catching their first wave. The light in their eyes tells no lies, it must be truly magical!
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