Uluru, Kata Tjuta et Watarrka – Les trois merveilles de l'Outback Australien

Mon expérience avec la compagnie « The Rock Tour » dans le Territoire du Nord

3 jours et 2 nuits de Uluru à Alice Springs

«Palya » – Bienvenue sur les terres Anangu !

Je tenais absolument à découvrir la cambrousse Australienne appelée « Outback » avant de rentrer en France. Le Centre-Rouge m’a paru être une destination indispensable ! J’ai pu y découvrir la culture aborigène et la vie dans ce désert semi-aride. J’ai donc passé trois jours et deux nuits à dormir dans les fameux « swag » Australiens avec la compagnie très expérimentée « The Rock Tour ».

Jour 1 – Uluru
Ce qui est bien avec ce voyage organisé, c’est qu’il est également possible de prendre l’avion le matin même et d’arriver directement à l’aéroport d’Ayers Rock/Connellan avant 13h00 pour commencer le tour sans perdre de temps.

Le matin, j’ai donc pris un vol depuis Melbourne à destination d’Ayers Rock. Depuis mon hublot, situé sur la droite, j’ai pu admirer les reliefs des dômes de Kata Tjuta. Les passagers étant assis à côté des hublots de gauche ont pu voir Uluru. Leur taille est impressionnante. Tous deux paraissent imposants et trônent fièrement sur le sol rouge-orangé qui parait aplani depuis l’avion.

On m’a accueilli dans le petit aéroport d’Ayers Rock (AYQ) avec le sourire vers midi. Le bus était déjà un peu rempli puisque certains ont rejoint le tour plus tôt, au lever du soleil, à Alice Springs.

Une fois le bus complet avec ses 21 passagers, nous avons pris la route et mangé un bon sandwich (il y a des options végétariennes) sur le trajet pour le déjeuner.

En s’approchant peu à peu du rocher, on sent l’excitation monter dans le bus et on prend conscience qu’Uluru est au moins deux fois plus grand que ce que l’on s’était imaginé !

uluru

 

Il faut en moyenne un peu plus de trois heures pour faire le tour d’Uluru (environ 10km). La marche est assez facile puisque le parcours est plat.

En début d’après-midi, on débute notre tour tranquillement, à distance du rocher, depuis la face d’Uluru qui est tenue un peu plus « secrète ». Par moment, des panneaux nous indiquent qu’il est interdit de prendre de photographies sur certaines portions du rocher par respect pour les aborigènes qui considèrent le lieu hautement sacré.

A mi-chemin, nous nous asseyons tous en cercle à l’ombre et notre guide Andrew, prend le temps de nous en dire un peu plus sur ce que représente Uluru et la région pour les aborigènes.

Le « Centre Rouge » (Red Center) est une zone subdésertique puisqu’il est entouré de multiples petites chaines de montagnes, ce qui lui procure de l’humidité donc moins d’évaporation d’eau. Ils estiment qu’il tombe en moyenne moins de 300mm de pluie par an. Parmi les différents peuples aborigène, Uluru a plus de connexion spirituelle avec les Pitjantjatjara. Les aborigènes de la région se donnent actuellement le nom d’Anangu (« être humain »), dû aux brassages de langues aborigènes.

Les aborigènes étaient des petites populations semi-nomadiques (le dernier semi-nomade est décédé en 1984). Ils se devaient de se déplacer afin de trouver des sources d’eau et de nourriture (pour chasser les animaux).

 

uluru rock

 

La deuxième partie de la marche s’effectue plus proche du monolithe, on a alors pu mieux discerner la couleur, et toucher le grès. On a également pu admirer ce qu’il reste des fresques peintes, et aller visiter le trou d’eau le plus conséquent. Uluru est fait d’une roche non poreuse, ce qui explique les trous d’eau qu’il contient et également, en partie, pourquoi il est tant important aux yeux des aborigènes. L’eau étant essentielle pour la vie, les initiations se faisaient donc à Uluru car il y avait plus d’eau pour toutes les personnes se rendant au monolithe lors des célébrations.

 

close up uluru

 

Il faut savoir que les aborigènes représentent une des plus anciennes civilisations au monde ! Il y avait plus de 250 différentes cultures et langues aborigènes qui s’étaient établies en fonction des différentes biodiversités qui les entouraient. La conception identitaire des aborigènes est crucialement liée à leurs terres dont ils sont inséparables. Tout paysage de ce territoire est riche d’histoires ancestrales et a énormément de sens pour eux. Ces légendes dépeignent l’histoire de ces peuples ainsi que leur relation éternelle à la terre qui leur appartient. Leur idée de la création du monde est que des « créatures » ont parcourus le territoire, l’ont façonné et leurs esprits sont restés encrées dans ces endroits, c’est l’essence de la vie. Ils se pensent descendants directs de ces « totems » et ont le devoir de protéger cet environnement qu’ils « contrôlent » grâce à leurs cérémonies où ils font sortir cet « essence de la vie » afin de le propager dans l’environnement. Ils appartiennent à la terre.

 

red centre

 

Les aborigènes ont essentiellement une culture orale transmise au travers d’histoires et de chansons. Ces histoires sont transmises à travers les générations afin d’assurer leur perpétration. Elles sont tenues secrètes. Les initiés doivent faire leurs preuves en partant seuls dans le désert grâce aux comptines qui agissent en réalité comme des cartes du territoire. Ils suivent les pas de « l’Être Créateur ». Seuls les survivants sont dignes, culture stricte oblige puisque les conditions de vie là-bas sont difficiles !

 

Pour le dîner, nous sommes allés admirer le coucher du soleil sur Uluru depuis un point de vue. Nous avons cuisiné des nouilles au poulet avec des légumes. Le rocher parait rouge-orangé lorsque le soleil se couche.

 

sunset

 

Le soir, pour $50 supplémentaires, il est possible de se rendre à l’exposition « Field Of Lights » créée par l’artiste Bruce Munro. Il s’agit d’un spectacle visuel de plus de 50 000 lampes solaires éclairés de différentes couleurs dispersées, sur une surface d’environ sept terrains de football, au pied d’Uluru.

 

Nous sommes arrivés au camp et avons préparé nos « swags » pour la nuit. Andrew nous a montré comment les dérouler et aussi les enrouler afin d’être plus efficace et rapide le matin au réveil ! Un swag est une sorte d’hybride entre une tente et un sac de couchage, il contient également un matelas.

Une fois le tutoriel terminé, nous avons pu nous doucher et recharger nos électroniques, puis nous nous sommes tous regroupés autour du feu à discuter et griller nos chamallows dans une bonne ambiance !

 

camping

 

Jour 2 – Kata Tjuta
Le matin, nous nous sommes réveillés tôt afin d’aller prendre notre petit déjeuner et admirer le lever du soleil au pied d’Uluru. Les reflets violets sur le rocher étaient tout simplement incroyables, bien qu’il fît un peu froid si tôt le matin dans le désert !

 

sunrise

 

Nous avons ensuite conduit jusqu’à Kata Tjuta, « la vallée des vents ». Kata Tjuta est un groupement de 36 dômes fait de multiples types de roches. Ce lieu mystérieux également sacré semble être tenu plus secret. Il est bien différent du site d’Uluru !

 

kata tjuta

 

Nous avons eu amplement de temps pour faire le tour de la partie touristique du site.

outback

 

La marche est légèrement plus difficile car le terrain est escarpé, mais les vues sont à couper le souffle !

 

red centre views

 

Le point culminant de Kata Tjuta est à 546 mètres.

 

boulders nt

 

La végétation aux alentours parait plus luxuriante et le chemin passe entre deux dômes ce qui nous permet de prendre de la hauteur pour contempler le paysage.

 

walking

 

Nous sommes retournés au camp pour déjeuner et le guide nous a annoncé qu’il allait se faire remplacer par un collègue car il se sentait malheureusement trop fatigué pour conduire 21 personnes jusqu’à Alice Springs en toute sécurité.

 

Nous avons donc rencontré Jérôme, un guide enthousiaste et plein d’énergie ! Jérôme a repris les rênes du tour, nous sommes donc tous montés dans le bus et il a débuté le trajet vers Kings Canyon. En chemin, il nous a raconté pleins d’anecdotes intéressantes au micro sur : la région, le désert, les aborigènes la faune et la flore locale.

bus

 

Nous avons fait une halte en chemin où nous avons pu grimper une dune de sable rouge qui donnait vue sur un vaste lac de sel et un autre monolithe au loin, semblable à Uluru, qui s’appelle Attila ou « Mount Conner ».

 

red sand

 

Sur la route, nous avons également croisé un couple d’aigles d’Australie (appelé the « wedge-tailed eagle »), un dingo et un troupeau de chevaux sauvages (appelés « brumbies »).

horses

 

On s’est également arrêtés au bord de la route pour ramasser du bois pour le feu, cette activité de groupe était bien divertissante et nous a donné l’occasion de nous étirer les jambes après tout ce trajet.

 

En conduisant, nous avons pu contempler le magnifique coucher du soleil, le ciel paraissait d’autant plus immense que d’habitude, les nuages étaient peints par les reflets du soleil, et l’ombre des arbres donnait de la profondeur à cette image incroyable

 

driving sunset

 

Nous sommes arrivés au camp appelé Kings Canyon Creek. Nous nous sommes tous activés pour faire un feu, préparer nos swags et cuisiner un délicieux chili con carne ainsi qu’un pain maison, le tout cuit sur le feu de bois !

Cette soirée fut très conviviale, remplie d’histoires, de jeux et de blagues. A l’heure du coucher, Jérôme nous a vivement conseillé de cacher nos chaussures dans nos swags pour éviter qu’un dingo ne nous les vole !

 

camp otuback

 

Jour 3 – Kings Canyon
Au réveil, nous avons rallumé le feu et pris notre petit déjeuner avant de conduire jusqu’à Kings Canyon. La première partie de la marche (trois heures au total) consistait à grimper une grande pente pour arriver au sommet du canyon.

 

kings canyon

 

C’était la partie la plus difficile du tour mais l’effort physique en valait bien la peine ! Les vues étaient saisissantes, on pouvait encore voir la lune et les couleurs du lever du soleil.

 

red centre camping

 

Marcher tout autour du rebord du canyon était impressionnant !

Nous sommes également descendus dans une crevasse du canyon pour aller voir le Jardin d’Eden, une oasis d’eau bordé d’une végétation luxuriante.

eden nt

Nous en avons profité pour grignoter à mi-chemin pour ensuite continuer la marche. Kings Canyon parait immense, et la large crevasse est effrayante car il est possible de s’approcher -en toute précaution- du bord.

kings canyon rim

 

A la fin du tour, nous avons pris la route jusqu’à Alice Springs et nous nous sommes arrêtés pour prendre notre dernier déjeuner.

 

Quelques kilomètres avant Alice Springs, nous avons fait une halte pour visiter une ferme de chameaux (plus précisément des dromadaires). Il faut savoir qu’il y a une grande population de chameaux dans le désert Australien qui ont été introduits par les Afghans lorsque le chemin de fer allant d’Adélaïde à Darwin a été construit.

 

camel

 

Il existe même une fameuse course de chameaux dans le désert, la « Camel Cup » ! Nous avons pu faire un petit tour à dos de chameau (marche et trot) pour $8 supplémentaires. Ces chameaux étaient apparemment des chameaux de compétition!

camel ride

 

Ensuite, nous avons fait le reste du chemin en bus jusqu’à Alice Springs.

 

alice springs

 

Jérôme a eu la gentillesse de nous amener en haut d’un point de vue sur une colline afin d’avoir un panorama de la ville et de voir le coucher du soleil. Il nous a ensuite tous déposés dans nos auberges de jeunesse respectives, et nous a invité à venir passer une dernière soirée tous ensemble au « Rock Bar » un pub du coin. Nous sommes tous venus, et avons diné dans la joie et la bonne humeur !

*Les passagers ayant réservé un tour de quatre jours ont fait le trajet retour le lendemain, tôt le matin, afin de rentrer directement sur Yulara (près d’Uluru) pour aller à l’aéroport d’Ayers Rock.

 

Ces trois jours en compagnie des autres voyageurs et des guides de « The Rock Tour » ont été tout simplement merveilleux ! Je m’en suis mis pleins les yeux à admirer les reflets rouge-orangés d’Uluru, Kata Tjuta et Kings Canyon ! Ce voyage a véritablement été à la hauteur de mes attentes. J’ai adoré le côté convivial et aventurier de ce tour, à partager l’expérience avec les autres touristes et à dormir sous les étoiles, à même le sol et auprès du feu dans les fameux swag Australiens. Quant au guide, il était professionnel, bien informé et agréable à écouter. Nous avons pu apprendre beaucoup de choses grâce à lui!

 

 

 

 

 

 

What to expect: Way Outback Kakadu & Litchfield Tour

I was eager to discover the Northern Territory with the famous Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks, and their numerous waterfalls, lagoons, and varied wildlife. Also learning about aboriginal art and culture along the way. I reserved my trip with the “Wayoutback Australian Safaris”, a renowned specialist in this domain. I knew that this trip was going to live up to expectations, and it did, from start to finish! Hiking, swimming in plunge pools, cruising on the Mary River Wetlands, standing under waterfalls, seeing numerous wildlife, sleeping in tents, gathering around campfires, star gazing... what can I say? This trip has all of this and more. Starting and ending in Darwin this round trip has a lot to offer for a reasonable price.

Day 1 –  Darwin to Kakadu National Park via Mary River Wildlife Cruise

I was picked up at my hostel at around 7am by a big four-wheel drive truck. Our driver and guide for the next few days, Nat, immediately put us at ease. She had a microphone to communicate with us while she was driving, as the driver’s compartment is a bit separated from the passengers’ seats. We were a group of 12 people (the maximum being 17) and all started to get along pretty well. Nat introduced herself and gave us a little bit of background regarding the Northern Territory, and Darwin’s history.

 

4WD
Traveling in style.

 

On our way to Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve, we had a very quick pit stop for coffee. Fog Dam is a refreshing wildlife sanctuary that has the perfect conditions for birds, plants (including the magnificent pink lotus) and crocodiles. It is a stretch of land (road) in the middle of the wetlands, accessible only during the dry season. We could only access half of the road at that time of the year. We also saw imposing Asian water-buffalos in cattle stations.

Our first big activity of the day was the Corroboree Billabong Wetland Cruise, on a part of the Mary River, to spot more wildlife. Everyone was eager to embark on the boat. It was spectacular! Our guide Chrissy was absolutely wonderful and extremely knowledgeable. She demonstrated so much love towards all the birds and crocodile of the billabong and had an abundance of interesting facts to tell us about them, we were a captive audience!

crocodile
Look at those teeth!

It was such a pleasure to cruise with her company along the billabong for over an hour and a half. We had many great photo opportunities of protected birds, Jabiru birds, eagles etc. and of the huge crocs laying on the riverbank.

jabiru
A Jabiru.

For lunch, we stopped at a crocodile and buffalo sight at Corroboree. Whilst there, we were able to compare a freshwater crocodile and an estuary (saltwater) crocodile.

On our way to Ubirr, Nat told us about the wet and dry seasons that happen in the Northern Territory and how differently the aboriginals perceive the seasons. She also explained the importance of Kakadu National Park throughout history. Upon entering the park, we saw some controlled burning of the landscape happening. They do contain burning of the bushes when they are still low on the ground in order to prevent big uncontrolled fires. This does not affect the local wildlife or trees as the fire lays low on the ground and the temperatures are not excessively high.

Ubirr has some great artwork on the rocks’ walls, dating from different periods of time. There is also an amazing lookout point on the hill where we were able to admire the wetlands, the rocks, the trees and the controlled burning from a safe distance.

roc art
Aboriginal rock art

After visiting Ubirr, we arrived at our campsite for the night. It was a pretty big resort with a restaurant, a bar, two swimming pools and clean facilities. We were in a private section of the campsite and had our own kitchen and dining area, with many tents that had a bunk bed and a single bed (this was a room for 3 people). Nat cooked us a delicious dinner whilst we took the opportunity to go and relax at one of the swimming pools. When we assembled to have dinner, we told anecdotes about ourselves so that we could get to know each other better.

During the evening, we gazed at the stars and heard nocturnal animals (probably wallabies, owls and other birds).

 

Day 2 – Gunlom Falls to Litchfield National Park

(Twin and Jim Jim Falls were replaced by Gunlom falls because these waterfalls were closed)

 

We woke early and left to go to an amazing waterfall spot. Nat had to leave the trailer midway at the Rangers’ car park to be able to access the bumpy dirt road with the four-wheel drive.

Gunlom Falls are absolutely wonderful! There are three levels of lagoons. The tallest waterfall falls into the lowest pool, it was technically cleared for swimming, but no one was doing so because we all feared there might be a crocodile left hiding somewhere! The upper and middle pools each have a lagoon that almost gives the impression of an infinity pool. The upper-pools have an amazing view and are very safe for swimming in the refreshing water.

We hiked up to the upper-pools first, as we were the first ones there, we could see the beautiful mirror reflection on the water, it was an extraordinary picture opportunity.

gunlom falls
Mirror reflection at Gunlom Falls.

We had plenty of time to swim around, explore the different lagoons and take in the gorgeous views. We then had our lunch at the lower pool, whilst admiring the waterfall.

We drove back to the ranger station to pick up our trailer and went to another “secret location” waterfall that was, once more, absolutely amazing and seemed extremely well hidden. We were the only ones there and had the chance to swim again.

On our way back to camp, we stopped by Pine Creek to fill up the tank and buy some homemade ice cream, and I got to meet another python snake called Freckles.

Nat took a moment to tell us more about the indigenous culture, Stuart’s highway, the Japanese bombing in Darwin etc.

We arrived at Mount Bundy Cattle Station, this is situated at the boundary of the Litchfield National Park, this was by far my favourite campsite! The domain is amazing, you can see hundreds of wild wallabies, they also have dogs, a Shetland pony and a horse walking around freely and other horses, cows and buffalos in the cattle/fields/enclosures/pastures/range.

pony
Hello!

The Adelaide River runs through the campsite so you might be able to spot crocodiles eyes at night if you flash a torch on the water. We slept in tents with beds in and had our own kitchen and dining table too. There is also a little bar and the people are very friendly, a musician was singing to entertain the people during dinner.  This place is truly remote, therefore at night, we walked away from the pollution of the campsite lights and gazed at the millions of stars and the milky way, it was breathtaking!

 

Day 3 - Litchfield National Park to Darwin

In the morning, we all went to feed the animals, there is one particular peacock that jumps for food!

peacock
A new peacock friend.

 

After breakfast, we made our way to a Butterfly farm.

wildlife
So pretty!

 

We were able to hold a butterfly and a huge snake. There were also a lot of farm animals: chickens, geese, turkeys, goats, pigs etc. we fed them all at the same time, it was pretty hectic but fun!

farm
Visting the farm.

 

Then we travelled to Buley Rockhole which is made out of several levels of clear lagoons. The rocks have a slight orange-red hue that looks so pretty. We all swam and tanned and then drove just a few more kilometres, a few minutes’ drive, to Florence Falls.

florence falls
Beautiful Florence Falls.

Florence Falls is composed of two big waterfalls that plunge into a pool where it is safe to swim, there were a few more tourists there but this is totally understandable as the place looks incredible. There are two paths you can take to go swimming in the pool, one has a great lookout over the waterfalls, the other one is a little pathway that is pleasant to take as you feel immersed in nature and also cross the tiny river a few times along the way.

We had hamburgers cooked on a barbecue for lunch near another outstanding waterfall called “Wangi Falls”.

hamburger
Hamburgers for lunch.

 

The Wangi Falls were really tall, but we couldn’t swim there as it was probably full of crocs!

waterfall
WOW.

 

On the way back to Darwin, we stopped to take a moment to appreciate how huge the termite mounds are! Nat showed us two sorts of termite mounds, the Cathedral and the Magnetic, and told us some very interesting facts about them. The Cathedral termite mound is huge, taller than us and has an orangey-red colouration and the Magnetic one is flat and pointed with a greyish hue.

termite
Magnetic or Cathedral?

We arrived back to Darwin at around 5.30pm and wished farewell to everyone who had participated in this marvellous tour. A few of us walked to Mindil Beach to contemplate the stunning sunset.

 

darwin
Darwin sunset.

 

The “Buffalo Dreaming” tour is absolutely incredible, the Northern Territory has so much to offer.  The landscapes are beautiful and full of history and meaning to the aboriginals. It was a great opportunity to learn more about aboriginal culture and history, I will take these lessons with me. The fitness level needed for the hikes is not exceedingly high, no one in the group had difficulties on any of the walks and probably waking up early in the morning was the hardest part of the trip for some but it was oh-so worth it to admire the colourful sunrise every morning!

Useful information:

This was my second trip with this company so much of the information that I needed was the same.

 

What to expect: Way Outback Cicada Dreaming Tour

I was yearning to discover the Australian Outback that surrounds the Northern Territory. Therefore, in June, I embarked on the 3-day “Cicada Dreaming” Tour with the most experienced company “Wayoutback Australian Safaris” starting from Alice Springs and ending in Darwin. This trip takes you right through the incredible Top End.

If you are interested in geology seeing the balanced rocks at Devils Marbles, visiting the Capricorn latitude line, bathing in hot springs, waterfalls, rivers, gorges, aliens and old gold mining towns then you need to do this trip! Seeing the changing landscapes through the minibus window going from semi-arid desert to greener fields with termite hills spread along the way is something to behold.

DAY 1 -   Alice Springs to Banka Banka Cattle Station

 

The minibus collected me directly from my hostel in Alice Springs early in the morning. I was the last person to enter the bus that was refreshingly empty, only eight passengers out of the 21-people capacity. This boded well for an extremely comfortable trip with the added bonus of getting to know my fellow passengers on a more intimate level. Our guide, Ian, took the time to explain how the trip was planned. The trip up to Darwin is approximately 1500 km travelling on the long Stuart Highway, which meant we would have quite a few driving hours along the way!

Our first stop was at the line of latitude Tropic of Capricorn. We promptly descended from the bus to learn more about this geographical marker and take pictures.

We then drove up to Aileron, where we were able to admire the huge metal sculpture of Aboriginals that guard the valley with their spears.

Aileron
Giants at Aileron

 

Later, we stopped by Barrow Creek to fill up on fuel. Here we met the owner of the Barrow Creek Hotel that has a huge collection of mementoes from around the world that he has accumulated over many years, either by bringing them back from his various travels or from passing tourists. It was a pleasure meeting him and if you tell him where you come from, he will certainly have something to tell you or show you about your country!

For lunch, we stopped at Wycliffe Well to have a picnic. Preparing lunch all together was great as we were finally able to properly meet and get to know each other whilst eating a delicious wrap. If you like stories about outer space and little green men, this is the place for you. Wycliffe Well is a holiday park situated in the middle of the Northern Territory, self-proclaimed the UFO capital of Australia! This place is filled with alien references from several well-known Sci-fi movies, there are also plenty of painted murals and fun alien themed stuff, including the body of the alien from the film Paul and a UFO landing pad. Inside the restaurant, they have an abundance of newspaper clippings of articles relating to the numerous UFO sightings that have occurred there.

You can also find aboriginal spot painting art to buy.

Wycliff Well
Aliens are real!

 

Our first aboriginal land sightseeing was Karlu Karlu, which translates to “boulders boulders”, also called “Devil’s marble”. We hiked for less than an hour around the area to admire the varied shapes and sizes of the perfectly balanced boulders.

Karlu Karlu
Karlu Karlu.

 

Ian told us a little bit about the flora of the region and about the erosion process of the granite that these giant boulders are made of.  The most famous boulder being the one that is perfectly cut in half.

We continued driving to finally arrive at our campsite a little before dark. Banka Banka (meaning “Bees bees”, there used to be a lot of them apparently). Wayoutback has its own private campsite inside Banka Banka, with a large kitchen and dining table. The campsite is fully equipped with showers, toilets, kitchens and even a bar! The campsite is surrounded by cattle with a few horses thrown in for good measure!

For dinner, we cooked some sausage, meat and vegetables and prepared a salad. We also learnt how to make damper bread that we then cooked in the fire, it was delicious.

cooking
Dinner prep.

 

We camped around the fire in our swags (a simple individual tent) sheets, pillows and blankets were a welcome addition to passing a comfortable night. It was amazing to be able to gaze at the stars shining so brightly with no light pollution to distract from the show going on over our heads, we could clearly see the Southern Stars.

fire pit
Way Outback fire pit.

 

DAY 2 - Banka Banka Cattle Station to Katherine

 

We all awoke before sunrise after our first night spent sleeping in our swags. We had a good breakfast at the campsite then started our drive up to Daly Waters. We had a few quick pit stops along the way to stretch our legs, buy some snacks and use the toilets. I indulged myself with a delicious chunky beef pie in one of the gas station restaurants.

It is certainly interesting to see the landscape rolling past the windows of the bus. The further we advanced towards the north, the greener it got.

I was astounded to see the enormous amounts of termite mounds along the side of the road! At one point, Ian pulled over on the side of the road and jumped out of the bus. He came back with a tortoise that he had spotted dangerously crossing the road. We gave it some water and returned it safely back to its habitat.

Tortoise
What a cutie!

When we finally arrived in the cute tiny town of Daly Waters, we cut our vegetables and prepared our hamburgers at the famous Outback Daly Waters Pub. Food was always prepared by the bus team and was a really enjoyable part of the group trip.  The pub is historical and full of mementoes of previous tourists that stopped there. The pub garden has two swimming pools.

We made a group decision to spend less time in the pub and more at the areas hot springs to enjoy the sunny weather, therefore, we had a rather quick lunch at Daly Waters and then headed to the Bitter Springs Thermal pool, we were given the choice of going to the better known Mataranka thermal pool or the Bitter Springs Thermal pool which is usually less crowded.

The water was incredibly clear and warm and was a delight to swim in. Ian kindly lent us some masks so that we could snorkel and see the bottom of the river.

 

bitter springs
Bitter Springs

 

After spending two hours relaxing there, we drove up to Katherine, the second biggest city of the Northern Territory. We gathered some firewood for the evening from the side of the road on the way there.

We were the only ones at the private campsite. It had all the usual facilities: kitchen, toilets, showers and tents with beds to sleep in. We all cooked a great dinner together and made another damper bread, this time sweet, with apples for dessert. When darkness fell we gathered around the campfire and had a great evening telling stories and jokes whilst watching the flames and roasting marshmallows.

 

Day 3 - Katherine to Darwin

 

This was my favourite day of the Cicada Dreaming tour, spent in Nitmiluk National Park.

We woke up early and had breakfast at the campsite then drove to Katherine Gorge. We hiked up the hill to discover a breathtaking view of the gorge.

 

Katherine Gorge
Katherine Gorge.

 

We were able to read stories about the Rainbow Serpent that lies inside the mountains and learn more about what the aboriginal call “sickness country”, a place you should not disturb. Whilst hiking, Ian told us about the surrounding flora and fauna and we were tempted into eating some fresh green ants - spoiler alert, they taste like lime! We spent a moment admiring the view and returned to the bus for the drive to Edith Falls (also called “Leliyn”).

There is a bit of a challenging steep hike uphill and then again downhill to finally arrive at Leliyn, but if grey nomads can do it, so can you! This waterfall sits in a rocky environment and has a natural deep pool you can safely swim in. We all had fun trying to swim across the waterfall, then relaxed on the warm orange rocks as if we were lizards basking in the sun! After swimming, we went back to the start of the trail where we had our appreciable lunch before jumping back on the bus to head on towards Darwin.

 

Edith Falls.
Edith Falls.

We stopped at Pine Creek, an old gold mining town, to fill the tank and buy some delicious homemade ice cream. We were lucky enough to meet the several friendly snakes they kept outside and had the chance to hold them for a while and take pictures. These were definitely the nicest pythons I have ever met!

 

python
Making friends.

 

Our last pit stop was at Adelaide River. We saw the original buffalo “Charlie” from the movie “Crocodile Dundee”, and also a huge stuffed five-metre estuary crocodile. Here, it was possible, to purchase some typical Aussie Outback souvenirs such as kangaroo scrotum bottle openers, crocodile paw back scratchers or even cane toad coin purses!

We finally arrived in Darwin at around 5pm. Ian dropped us at our hostel, the YHA Backpackers. This hostel is quite busy and has several facilities such as a big kitchen with plenty of stoves, a swimming pool and an animated bar.

I was eager to see the sunset, so I left my backpack in the hostel lockers and headed to Mindil Beach. On Thursdays and Fridays, from April to October, there is an open market by the beach with plenty of food trucks and stalls where you could buy various artwork, clothing, beauty products etc.  This was one of the most incredible sunsets that I have ever had the chance to see, the colours were so bright and beautiful. We could see the reflection of the sky on the beach and on the water. Some people were practising poi with fire, it was almost hypnotizing.

Mindil Beach Sunset
Fun on the sand.

 

The Cicada Dreaming tour is outstanding, the Northern Territory has so much to offer.  Be aware that this trip entails a lot of driving on the Stuart Highway, it helps you appreciate the enormity of the Australian outback.  The camping was brilliant, the sites well equipped and bonding around campfires with my fellow passengers was a definite plus. Everyone helps with meal preparations which, again, helps with getting to know one another. This trip can definitely be taken as a group or as an individual person, as I did, because you are automatically immersed in the group and never feel isolated. This trip is not a difficult one the fitness levels needed are not exceptionally high and is accessible to most people.

Being in the outback in the middle, it seems, of nowhere is something that has to be lived to be understood. If you are looking for a completely different trip in the outback this is a good one to do.

Edith Falls
Stunning Edith Falls.

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